Colombia, I’ve missed you!

by Stuart Goodwin, posted in Colombia revisited, 2023, Uncategorized

After a longer than expected experience in the corporate world, once again I find myself with the luxury of having time to travel. My first visit to Colombia in 2018 was incredible, and I’ve been promising myself for the past five years that I would return.

Of course there’s a danger somewhere that was new and exciting might somehow disappoint when you revisit. I’m pleased to say that all I have discovered so far is the same beautiful nature, breathtaking views, exciting cities, and of course incredibly friendly and hospitable Colombians.

This time I flew direct to Bogota as connecting flights carry a greater risk your bike will get lost or damaged. I also wanted to see the capital having skirted round it last time. Immigration was simple, but customs were a little confused. Why was I bringing a used bicycle with me? It was a reminder that, despite being a nation that loves bicycles (like really loves bicycles, and worships their cycling heroes), few people understand the concept of cycle touring. After a few minutes of me showing them photos of my last tour, they lost interest (understandable) and waved me through.

Bogota is a city of over 7 million inhabitants. With no metro and a chaotic bus system the traffic jams can be bad. But there’s a great network of cycle paths that is well used. And every Sunday they close 120 kilometres of roads to allow cycling, skating, running or walking. It’s estimated that 25% of the population take part somehow on an average week. I took full advantage and cycled a big loop of the city, including some closed motorway.

Bogota is (rightly) famous for it’s street art. It’s omnipresent, with strong themes of nature, feminism, cycling, civil rights and indigenous culture, as well as protest against police/govt/army.

One of the reasons for the flourishing street art scene in Bogota is the 2011 shooting by police of a 16 year old graffiti artist. After an attempted cover-up, an officer was convicted of his murder and sentenced to 37 years in prison. Subsequently graffiti was decriminalised. Whilst technically still a civil offence the penalty (if applied) is a monetary fine.

The convicted officer fled before sentence but was caught in 2021. It’s no surprise then that a lot of graffiti is anti-police, along with anti-army. The letters ‘ACAB’ (all cops are bastards) are plentiful along with the numeric equivalent ‘1312’, as well as references to the army’s ‘false positive’ assasinations.

Sadly Botero, Colombia’s most famous artist, died this year at the age of 91. I loved the Medellín sculptures that I saw last time so visited Bogota’s Botero museum. Of all his slightly tongue-in-cheek paintings, my favourite was ‘El ladron’ or ‘The thief’.

Despite the fact my pulse was still thumping after 4 days (Bogota is at 2700m asl) it was time to set off. Using the cycle lanes I was able to cycle an incredible 40kms out of the city without playing in the traffic. I won’t claim that it was fun as they’re next to fume-laden arterial roads, but at least I wasn’t dodging lorries or kamikaze buses.

Once out of the city I soon saw Colombia’s landscapes and nature again. It was good to be back and my grin got gradually bigger.

First stop was a small town called Zipaquirá. Many people visit because of the ‘Cathedral of Salt’, an old salt mine with huge caves housing enormous crucifixes as well as a place of worship. Whilst I did visit the Cathedral, for me it was also fun to see that this is where Egan Bernal, a remarkable Colombian cyclist, grew up. The town is rightly proud of him. Of all the pics I’ve taken of my bike leaning against things (sad, I know), this is one of my favourites.

From here it got progressively hillier, tougher, and more rewarding. I had some doubts as to how I would fare, given that I broke my right elbow in May and then had my back suddenly develop agonising spasms two weeks before my flight to Colombia. Luckily the riding seemed to do me good. A huge smile on the face is probably better than any dosage of Ibuprofen.

Along the route I was fortunate to meet up with friends from my last trip (several came to visit me in Europe) as well as make new ones along the way. Colombians are incredibly hospitable and friendly, In just the first few days I had all manner of kindness offered, including farmers inviting me into their home for coffee, road surveyors giving me drinks, and a motorcyclist stopping me to invite me to stay in his and his (English) wife’s home. And a coffee trader was also happy to let me use their industrial scales to see how much my bike and luggage actually weigh – 48kgs. That’s my excuse for being so slow up the hills, and I’m sticking to it.

Colombia reallly is an amazing place to cycle.

500 kms later and over 8000 metres total climbing and I was back in Medellín. That’ll be for the next post, but it’s good to be back in this remarkable city.

I’ll be here a good while,’taking more Spanish classes (it’s got rusty, but still usable) as well as planning my route to the north of the country in the New Year.

Sending best wishes to everyone, wherever you are.

32 thoughts on “Colombia, I’ve missed you!”

  1. Hi Stuart. Really good to hear how the trip is going and how you are. Lots to take in from your feed, and will really enjoy looking over it in Ex Tec mode ! Very happy for you 😊

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    1. Thanks Mike, good to hear from you. So, was it just me that hadn’t registered ‘1312’? Or maybe I’d just forgotten 🙂 Warmest to you and the family, custodians of all manner of Stuart’s transport modes!

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  3. Thank you so much dear Stuart – amazing what you did and thank you so much for the great pictures – enjoy the weather in Berlin is cold and we did have snow not like the country side. I am wishing you both a great Christmas in Medellin one of George his favourites as you might recall – and have a wonderful trip in 2024.
    can’t wait for more exciting pictures and stories – Lots of love and hugs, Gerda

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    1. Good to hear from you Gerda! Of course I remember my chats with George about Colombia. I like to think he would have approved of my coming back to explore, and would probably have given me a few tips too! Sending warm hugs to cold Berlin, S x

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  4. So wonderful to hear of your travels back in Colombia, Stuart. Thank you for sharing again.

    I haven’t been back since backpacking there alone in 1991, while they were hunting down Pablo Escobar. Of all my world travelling, Colombia is still my favourite. My return is long overdue! Viva Colombia!

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    1. Thanks Sarah, and good to hear from you. I suspect you saw a version of Colombia that was a bit more rough around the edges, but with every bit as much warmth and kindness from the locals. You should indeed return – life is short! Hope all is well with you, S x

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  5. Good to hear from you and see the smile back in your face.. look forward to the next instalment.. Take care out there and enjoy the Spanish lessons.. Phil

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  7. Good luck Stuart!

    Regards from Berlin 

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  8. Thank you for sharing and taking us with you. Your photography is still Nat geo standard! Brilliant. Looking forward to the next instalment. Ride safe.

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    1. Hi Roy. Great to hear from you.
      As a fellow biker I know that you’d love it here – it’s a special place for cyclists.
      Hope all well with you, Gill, and the rest of the clan!
      Warmest, Stuart

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    1. Hey Chip, good to hear from you!
      Funnily enough, you’re not the first to have commented on that.
      You wouldn’t be asking that if I took selfies at the top of some of the hills though…. 🙂
      Hope all good in Atlanta and preparations for festive season are going well,
      Stuart

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      1. Das mit dem Glühwein lässt sich bestimmt machen. Mein Sohn Tobias folgt jetzt auch Deinem Blog. Ich habe mir schon gedacht, dass ihm Deine Fotos und Reisebeschreibungen gefallen würden. Happy cycling!

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    1. Cheers Colin, and good to hear from you! I’ll do my best to keep pedalling. Most, but by no means all of the truly brutal hills are behind me. Travels north of Medellin (previously unexplored for me) will continue in the new year. Have a great Christmas in the meantime, Stuart

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